Monday, 7 January 2008
Corrections and apologies
So, in the post about Tokyo, where I posted the picture of the sign advertising a musical called "How to Suck Shit", I was mistaken. I recently had it pointed out to me, and it is now blatantly obvious to me, that it is, in fact, "How to Succeed". I don't know how I missed it, and it makes a lot more sense, but a lot less interesting than "How to Suck Shit". Oh well...
Sunday, 6 January 2008
Winter, New Years, and Christmas in a place that doesn't do Christmas
The start of December saw the final game for the Tochigi SC soccer team, also the first game of theirs that I had seen. It was a mission to get out there, we all cycled, and it was probably a good 15km each way, with a surprise giant hill just before we arrived. The game was pretty cool, Tochigi won, which was cause for much cheering amongst the fans, of which, there were at least a few thousand. Each time a goal was scored, fans would disappear behind humongous banners that seemed to appear from nowhere. I don't have any photos of the banners at the soccer, but there are some below, that were used for the same reasons at the hockey game. After the game, we were about to head off back to town, when it was noted that Chris's bike tyre was rooted. Fortunately, Juhani (who had just left town) had left his pump in Tawny's car, so Chris took this, and stopping after short intervals, would keep it relatively full of air. At one point, he caused a 10 minute delay though, when he somehow got the pump stuck between the spokes of his front tire (see photo), after he "dropped" it, and it "fell" into the tyre. Yeah
right, Chris!
I want to just write a quick little ditty on karaoke. As everyone knows, it was invented here, and is extremely popular. At least it's popular amongst the foreigners here it is. In the three and a half months I have been here, I must have been to karaoke at least 15 times, probably more. The first time, two days after I arrived here, and most recently yesterday afternoon. No doubt I'll end up doing it tonight after dinner with friends. Karaoke here is far better than back in NZ. Karaoke in bars is almost unheard of here, you go to karaoke places to do karaoke, and are put in your own room, the size of which is decided by how many people you have. There are rooms for as few as 2-3 people, or up to as many as 30+. Prices are also often fantastic. The place we went to on Christmas eve was 600 yen (about NZ$7), and this was for any amount of time between midday and 7pm, and included all the soft drink you want (simply add some store bought vodka or other alcohol, and voilà, good times for everyone!), and you can also have, for about 1000 yen (NZ$11) a nomihoudai, or all you can drink, so it's pretty good. Particularly when alcohol is involved, karaoke can be great fun, and nearly everyone gets involved, and up and dancing around.
Ok, so enough of that, as December drew on, it was getting closer and closer to Christmas , my last day at Takaragi JHS for 2007. The Friday before Christmas was our bonenkai, the end of year party. This was great fun. Almost all of the teachers attended, and it was my first real introduction to the real Japanese drinking culture. When we arrived, there were two beer bottles in front of each person's setting. The only rules seemed to be that you were not allowed to pour your own drink, and your glass was never to be less than three quarters full. Each time you'd take a drink, someone would be there ready to top you back up. Good times, and after this, we went to an izakaya (Japanese bar) where many a traditional song was sung, until I interrupted , and made them do the only Japanese song I really know, quite rocky and untraditional.
On Christmas Eve, Liz came arrived to spend a few days in Utsunomiya. First we did karaoke, then dinner, then came back home for a couple of Baileys before bed. I remembered seeing a tiny Christmas tree in a cupboard here, so set that up, and we laid out our presents. On Christmas, we were up at 6.30, to open presents, and prepare a breakfast of fruit salad, croissants, and camembert cheese. Then it was time for school. Yes, school on Christmas. Christmas Eve was a celebration of the Emperor's birthday here, not actually his birthday, but celebrated very close to Christmas every year. It is my strong belief that in a country like Japan, as westernised as it is, if they are going to have a holiday this close to Christmas, they may as well hold it on the day, which I'm sure would be appreciated by the many foreigners living and working here. Instead, it is almost always the last day of school for the year. I had three classes, all of which were Christmas themed, where we talked about both the religious and commercial sides of the holiday. All of the students knew that Christians celebrate it as the birth of Christ, but they no idea where he was born. "America, Sweden, Norway, New Zealand, Australia" were a few of the suggestions I had, so I told them the country started with an "I", and was bombarded with "India, Iraq, Indonesia, England (which starts with an "I" here, igirisu)", and in each of the classes I wound up telling them the correct answer. I decided that I was going to have a half day, and approached the vice principal at lunch time. All I had to say was "It's Christmas, and..." and he told me I could go. So then, it was lunch time with Liz, at some restaurant here. Nothing had traditional Christmas meals (which in Japan is chicken, KFC almost always gets booked out on this day each year), but managed to find a place that did steak, then it was back home to talk to the family and get ready for the evening, where we met up with other teachers and friends. We had booked a place for 15 people, having invited 20, and not thinking they'd all turn up, and we wound up having 28. Secret Santa gifts were exchanged, and then we drank, and ate, and drank, and then went to karaoke, and sung and drank.
On Boxing Day (Americans, click the link and you''ll see, it's not just some crazy Kiwi thing), I went to get my Japanese drivers license. This was an easy task to complete, but at an inconvenient place. I had to take a bus, that dropped me at the license centre at 11.50, just before lunchtime for the employees, wait till 1.00, and then fill in all sorts of forms. When I was finished, at 2.25, I had just missed the bus back to town, and would have had to wait until 3.30 for the next one. So instead, I caught a Taxi with a Brazilian guy, who also didn't have to do a test, but has to put up learner driver signs for the first year he drives here (as do most who drive on the right hand side of the road), so now, I can legally drive here, even completely unaware of driving rules, when to give way, etc. which doesn't seem to be a problem, as it doesn't look like Japanese people know what they are supposed to do either.
On December 30, we went to Nikko to see the local ice hockey team play some team from Hokkaido. Well, technically, according to the programme, we actually went to an ice hochey game, one of the many mistakes here on lots of signage. It was the first time I had seen a full ice hockey game (I'd watched 10 minutes of one before, but then my glasses broke), and I loved it. The Nikko Ice Bucks won, which was again greatly appreciated by the home crowd, who waved many of their banners again that blocked many people from view (can't be seen too clearly here, but the ones at the soccer were even bigger than these). Then, it was back to Utsunomiya for okonomiyaki (literally fried things that you like, or Japanese pancakes that you cook yourself on a hotplate in the middle of your table), and home to an early night before my trip to Mishima for the New Year.
I arrived in Mishima after a little confusion in Tokyo, at aboout 1.30 on New Year's Eve, and was met by Liz. We headed back to her place after lunch, and did almost nothing for the afternoon, which was great! Then, after dinner, we headed to the Mishima train station, and went to Numazu, where we were met by Mr Hida, a teacher at Liz's school, and a Buddhist priest. We went to a big temple with him in Numazu, where we were shown around the grounds, which were amazingly well presented (unfortunately no photos as proof though), and introduced to other priests.
Japanese people have a very different view towards suicide than Westerners, and this is relevant to note here. The priests, upon learning we were from New Zealand, mentioned the two Japanese men, who died during a fishing trip in the Urawera ranges. They then started joking that it was suicide. This was not at all predictable, and was, to my Western mind, obviously something not to joke about. They also started talking about whaling, complaining that countries like Australia were against it (fortunately they didn't ask us for our input on this). We were then given transcripts, led to the front of all of the priests, just as people began to enter the temple, and we chanted, or at least attempted to chant, sutras with them. Then, it was time to ring the bell 108 times, which signifies the 108 sins of humanity (this is done at all Buddhist temples across Japan), and then were put in a car and driven to Mr Hida's son's juku
where we were given soba noodles, tempura, and then led to the Mishima Taisha (big shrine).
At the shrine, which had literally of thousands of people at it, we proceeded to the main altar (I guess that's what you'd call it), for hatsumoude, the first prayer of the New Year. After this, we bought our luck charms and predictions for the year to come. What happens here with the luck charms, is that you buy them at the start of the year, and then at the end of the year, you throw them on a bonfire, and buy new ones. With the fortune papers, if they are good, like mine was, you keep them, but if not, like Liz's, you tie them to a line at the shrine, and they are burnt by the priests.
After the shrine, we made our way home, to have a short sleep, before we woke up and went to Mr Hida's temple, to have breakfast with his family. The traditional breakfast consists of sake (Japanese rice wine), then a meal of miso soup, with potatoes and mochi (rice cake), and a platter of egg rolls, fish rolls, egg and fish rolls, whole small fish, chicken, fruit, and fish eggs. I passed on the fish eggs, and a couple of fish rolls, but tried everything else. After the breakfast, with his extremely hospitable family, we had a short tour of his temple, and noticed that Mt Fuji (affectionately known as Mr Fuji by Liz and many others here) was looking splendid in the distance, so we decided to go in for a closer look.
We went down the Izu peninsula, to the town of Izunagaoka, and went up the gondola to Katsuragi-san, another mountain, to get a good view of Mr Fuji. Unfortunately for us, during our trip down there, the clouds decided to cover him up, and we were unable to get a clear view of the peak. It was good fun anyway, and we did get a decent look at the Pacific coast, as well as surrounding towns on the peninsula. And, while up there, when we stopped for lunch, we were approached by four elderly men, who gave us some more sake, wishing us a Happy New Year. Unfortunately, the sake was quite displeasing, and I struggled through mine, and had to politely decline when they offered more.
The following day, we headed in to Tokyo, to meet Chris, another of our Japanese class, who is living in Hokkaido, but was down for the break. Mr Fuji was displaying his peak in all it's glory, and unfortunately the photo above is the only one I have that shows it. It's not the best photo, but from any other nearby location, the view was hindered by intrusive factories. Tokyo was good fun. We went for lunch at a Japanese curry restaurant, and then went looking for the Yasukuni Shrine, which caused much uproar when visited by former Prime Minister Junichiro Koizumi during his time as head of the nation. Unfortunately we were unable to find it, but we did find another shrine, and then headed to the Starbucks at Shibuya. Not because we all love Starbucks or anything, but because it overlooks the busiest foot-traffic intersection in the world. Stupidly, I forgot to take a photo of it at it's busiest, and the video I took turned out to be of very crappy quality, but I guarantee it was insanely busy, apparently with at least 2000 people crossing each time the lights allow.
After this, it was back to Utsunomiya, where not much has been happening really. Next weekend, I'm taking part in an English camp, helping students who are going to go to NZ or the US this year. Should be interesting... But before then, all I have to do today is get ready for my first day at a new school, Kunimoto JHS, where I start tomorrow.
right, Chris!
I want to just write a quick little ditty on karaoke. As everyone knows, it was invented here, and is extremely popular. At least it's popular amongst the foreigners here it is. In the three and a half months I have been here, I must have been to karaoke at least 15 times, probably more. The first time, two days after I arrived here, and most recently yesterday afternoon. No doubt I'll end up doing it tonight after dinner with friends. Karaoke here is far better than back in NZ. Karaoke in bars is almost unheard of here, you go to karaoke places to do karaoke, and are put in your own room, the size of which is decided by how many people you have. There are rooms for as few as 2-3 people, or up to as many as 30+. Prices are also often fantastic. The place we went to on Christmas eve was 600 yen (about NZ$7), and this was for any amount of time between midday and 7pm, and included all the soft drink you want (simply add some store bought vodka or other alcohol, and voilà, good times for everyone!), and you can also have, for about 1000 yen (NZ$11) a nomihoudai, or all you can drink, so it's pretty good. Particularly when alcohol is involved, karaoke can be great fun, and nearly everyone gets involved, and up and dancing around.
Ok, so enough of that, as December drew on, it was getting closer and closer to Christmas , my last day at Takaragi JHS for 2007. The Friday before Christmas was our bonenkai, the end of year party. This was great fun. Almost all of the teachers attended, and it was my first real introduction to the real Japanese drinking culture. When we arrived, there were two beer bottles in front of each person's setting. The only rules seemed to be that you were not allowed to pour your own drink, and your glass was never to be less than three quarters full. Each time you'd take a drink, someone would be there ready to top you back up. Good times, and after this, we went to an izakaya (Japanese bar) where many a traditional song was sung, until I interrupted , and made them do the only Japanese song I really know, quite rocky and untraditional.
On Christmas Eve, Liz came arrived to spend a few days in Utsunomiya. First we did karaoke, then dinner, then came back home for a couple of Baileys before bed. I remembered seeing a tiny Christmas tree in a cupboard here, so set that up, and we laid out our presents. On Christmas, we were up at 6.30, to open presents, and prepare a breakfast of fruit salad, croissants, and camembert cheese. Then it was time for school. Yes, school on Christmas. Christmas Eve was a celebration of the Emperor's birthday here, not actually his birthday, but celebrated very close to Christmas every year. It is my strong belief that in a country like Japan, as westernised as it is, if they are going to have a holiday this close to Christmas, they may as well hold it on the day, which I'm sure would be appreciated by the many foreigners living and working here. Instead, it is almost always the last day of school for the year. I had three classes, all of which were Christmas themed, where we talked about both the religious and commercial sides of the holiday. All of the students knew that Christians celebrate it as the birth of Christ, but they no idea where he was born. "America, Sweden, Norway, New Zealand, Australia" were a few of the suggestions I had, so I told them the country started with an "I", and was bombarded with "India, Iraq, Indonesia, England (which starts with an "I" here, igirisu)", and in each of the classes I wound up telling them the correct answer. I decided that I was going to have a half day, and approached the vice principal at lunch time. All I had to say was "It's Christmas, and..." and he told me I could go. So then, it was lunch time with Liz, at some restaurant here. Nothing had traditional Christmas meals (which in Japan is chicken, KFC almost always gets booked out on this day each year), but managed to find a place that did steak, then it was back home to talk to the family and get ready for the evening, where we met up with other teachers and friends. We had booked a place for 15 people, having invited 20, and not thinking they'd all turn up, and we wound up having 28. Secret Santa gifts were exchanged, and then we drank, and ate, and drank, and then went to karaoke, and sung and drank.
On Boxing Day (Americans, click the link and you''ll see, it's not just some crazy Kiwi thing), I went to get my Japanese drivers license. This was an easy task to complete, but at an inconvenient place. I had to take a bus, that dropped me at the license centre at 11.50, just before lunchtime for the employees, wait till 1.00, and then fill in all sorts of forms. When I was finished, at 2.25, I had just missed the bus back to town, and would have had to wait until 3.30 for the next one. So instead, I caught a Taxi with a Brazilian guy, who also didn't have to do a test, but has to put up learner driver signs for the first year he drives here (as do most who drive on the right hand side of the road), so now, I can legally drive here, even completely unaware of driving rules, when to give way, etc. which doesn't seem to be a problem, as it doesn't look like Japanese people know what they are supposed to do either.
On December 30, we went to Nikko to see the local ice hockey team play some team from Hokkaido. Well, technically, according to the programme, we actually went to an ice hochey game, one of the many mistakes here on lots of signage. It was the first time I had seen a full ice hockey game (I'd watched 10 minutes of one before, but then my glasses broke), and I loved it. The Nikko Ice Bucks won, which was again greatly appreciated by the home crowd, who waved many of their banners again that blocked many people from view (can't be seen too clearly here, but the ones at the soccer were even bigger than these). Then, it was back to Utsunomiya for okonomiyaki (literally fried things that you like, or Japanese pancakes that you cook yourself on a hotplate in the middle of your table), and home to an early night before my trip to Mishima for the New Year.
I arrived in Mishima after a little confusion in Tokyo, at aboout 1.30 on New Year's Eve, and was met by Liz. We headed back to her place after lunch, and did almost nothing for the afternoon, which was great! Then, after dinner, we headed to the Mishima train station, and went to Numazu, where we were met by Mr Hida, a teacher at Liz's school, and a Buddhist priest. We went to a big temple with him in Numazu, where we were shown around the grounds, which were amazingly well presented (unfortunately no photos as proof though), and introduced to other priests.
Japanese people have a very different view towards suicide than Westerners, and this is relevant to note here. The priests, upon learning we were from New Zealand, mentioned the two Japanese men, who died during a fishing trip in the Urawera ranges. They then started joking that it was suicide. This was not at all predictable, and was, to my Western mind, obviously something not to joke about. They also started talking about whaling, complaining that countries like Australia were against it (fortunately they didn't ask us for our input on this). We were then given transcripts, led to the front of all of the priests, just as people began to enter the temple, and we chanted, or at least attempted to chant, sutras with them. Then, it was time to ring the bell 108 times, which signifies the 108 sins of humanity (this is done at all Buddhist temples across Japan), and then were put in a car and driven to Mr Hida's son's juku
where we were given soba noodles, tempura, and then led to the Mishima Taisha (big shrine).
At the shrine, which had literally of thousands of people at it, we proceeded to the main altar (I guess that's what you'd call it), for hatsumoude, the first prayer of the New Year. After this, we bought our luck charms and predictions for the year to come. What happens here with the luck charms, is that you buy them at the start of the year, and then at the end of the year, you throw them on a bonfire, and buy new ones. With the fortune papers, if they are good, like mine was, you keep them, but if not, like Liz's, you tie them to a line at the shrine, and they are burnt by the priests.
After the shrine, we made our way home, to have a short sleep, before we woke up and went to Mr Hida's temple, to have breakfast with his family. The traditional breakfast consists of sake (Japanese rice wine), then a meal of miso soup, with potatoes and mochi (rice cake), and a platter of egg rolls, fish rolls, egg and fish rolls, whole small fish, chicken, fruit, and fish eggs. I passed on the fish eggs, and a couple of fish rolls, but tried everything else. After the breakfast, with his extremely hospitable family, we had a short tour of his temple, and noticed that Mt Fuji (affectionately known as Mr Fuji by Liz and many others here) was looking splendid in the distance, so we decided to go in for a closer look.
We went down the Izu peninsula, to the town of Izunagaoka, and went up the gondola to Katsuragi-san, another mountain, to get a good view of Mr Fuji. Unfortunately for us, during our trip down there, the clouds decided to cover him up, and we were unable to get a clear view of the peak. It was good fun anyway, and we did get a decent look at the Pacific coast, as well as surrounding towns on the peninsula. And, while up there, when we stopped for lunch, we were approached by four elderly men, who gave us some more sake, wishing us a Happy New Year. Unfortunately, the sake was quite displeasing, and I struggled through mine, and had to politely decline when they offered more.
The following day, we headed in to Tokyo, to meet Chris, another of our Japanese class, who is living in Hokkaido, but was down for the break. Mr Fuji was displaying his peak in all it's glory, and unfortunately the photo above is the only one I have that shows it. It's not the best photo, but from any other nearby location, the view was hindered by intrusive factories. Tokyo was good fun. We went for lunch at a Japanese curry restaurant, and then went looking for the Yasukuni Shrine, which caused much uproar when visited by former Prime Minister Junichiro Koizumi during his time as head of the nation. Unfortunately we were unable to find it, but we did find another shrine, and then headed to the Starbucks at Shibuya. Not because we all love Starbucks or anything, but because it overlooks the busiest foot-traffic intersection in the world. Stupidly, I forgot to take a photo of it at it's busiest, and the video I took turned out to be of very crappy quality, but I guarantee it was insanely busy, apparently with at least 2000 people crossing each time the lights allow.
After this, it was back to Utsunomiya, where not much has been happening really. Next weekend, I'm taking part in an English camp, helping students who are going to go to NZ or the US this year. Should be interesting... But before then, all I have to do today is get ready for my first day at a new school, Kunimoto JHS, where I start tomorrow.
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